The iconic Bugaboos Spires in the Purcell Mountains of British Columbia have a certain magic to them and is truly one of Canada’s most spectacular places. The granite spires with their sheer walls extruding from the glacier are simply amazing. You can’t help but get the urge to climb these walls when you look up and gaze at them. In the fall of 1994 my wife Mary and I set off to climb Pigeon Spire. A grueling hike with a backpack full of food and climbing gear found us at the Conrad Kain hut, named after the famous Mountain Guide. The hut is the mecca for all climbers and the starting point to the Spires. It was a beautiful clear sky day after a night of fresh snow when Mary and I set off at 4:30 in the morning. Across the first glacier, up to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col and across the second glacier to the base of Pigeon Spire. Four hours of climbing brought us close to the top, unfortunately the storm from the night before deposited too much snow on the summit ridge for us to safely make it across. We sat down on a ledge, let our feet dangle over the edge of a 1,000 foot cliff, drank hot tea and ate our lunch. As we sat there with the wind blowing around us we noticed the complete silence and peace that exists in these mountains, I think we even fell asleep in the sunshine for a while. A few hours of climbing and traversing across the glaciers back to the hut for a good night sleep. We returned to civilization the next day leaving us with a sense of needing to return to these cathedrals of stone.
Jori G – The Crossing